What Is The Importance Of Concrete Resurfacing?

For home owners or building managers, concrete resurfacing is imperative to maintaining the structural integrity of a house or building. Concrete resurfacing can be defined as the application of an overlay composed of either a modified polymer or thin cement based onto the top of an existing concrete surface. It enables a spectacular brand new surface at a much reduced cost so it is a popular and important building upkeep project. Especially when compared to the cost of putting up a new concrete. Concrete resurfacing is not a new concept in home and building maintenance and has also been gaining popularity in both commercials and public highways work projects. When a concrete surface is beginning to look worn out or dirty it affects the appearance of a building. Concrete resurfacing is a project which will make your concrete look amazing at very affordable costs. There are many reasons as to why having concrete resurfacing done is a wise decision.
Concrete resurfacing is important for those who want to maintain the integrity of a structure. If not maintained and looked after concrete can start to fall apart. If this is not taken care of it is possible that a building is even structurally affected. Applying the concrete resurfacing protects and preserves the surface which helps to avoid possible cracks and water intrusions. The basic point behind the need to maintain concrete surfaces is based on the fact that the surface does not lose strength or start to fall apart. This is all a crucial safety issue too.
Resurfacing can be done both in the interior and exterior of your home. There are a wide rage of colors and designs including styles that are traditional or more modern finishes that home owners have to chose from. Options vary from elegant and stylish sandstone finishes to the look of cozy bricks as well as the traditional paved look and at a much-reduced cost. Depending on the design chosen, your home will look rejuvenated or even have a brand new look which will greatly enhance your property's look.
Another important feature of resurfacing lies in the fact that it is cost effective when compared to getting new concrete surfaces for your property. The project is much less expensive for homeowners since they do not have to remove the old concrete and replace it with another floor surface. To replace a floor or driveway involves many labour intensive steps. Breaking up and removing the original floor, cleaning and preparing the floor for the new concrete and finally the laying down of the new floor. Each step is messy, takes time and is expensive to have done.
Concrete resurfacing is a gateway to increasing the value of your property. This becomes even more vital for those who are planning on selling their home and don't want to incur renovations costs. It has therefore become important for all homeowners considering selling their property and wanting that property to be in elegant shape and at a high value.

Concrete Your Way offers the highest quality concrete polishing and garage flooring services. Your one stop solution for
decorative concrete and other concrete services.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_J._Malcolm

Secret To Timeless Look: Exposed Aggregate Concrete

Over two thousand years ago, the citizens of Rome searched for materials and processes to beautify their homes inexpensively. Throughout the Italian peninsula, workers used exposed aggregate concrete to mimic the look of the pristine marble and granite floors of the empire's wealthiest citizens. Today, considering the economic climate, homeowners in increasing numbers are taking advantage of the versatility of exposed aggregate concrete to add real value and immense beauty to their home without breaking the bank.
The Romans mastered the art of concrete but did not stop at using the material as an efficient way to build things taller and larger. Workers developed a way to pour a cement floor and then sprinkle tiny bits of colored stone or marble chips over the surface to give the substance the appearance of more expensive materials.
Today, contractors are able to use essentially the same techniques - with advanced materials and processes - to allow homeowners wanting to update or expand to achieve high-end look with a smaller budget.
Exposed aggregate concrete has almost limitless potential to be used virtually anywhere on a residential property. Garden pathways and patios are likely the most common outdoor applications, but the variety of finishes, colors, and textures available have expanded the demand for garage floors, garden walls and driveways made from this innovative process. Indoors, experienced artisans can create spectacular floors, stairways and even countertops and fireplaces from exposed aggregate concrete.
The process appears relatively simple, but the work is usually best left to experienced professional installers. Concrete is not an extremely forgiving material and fixing mistakes can be an extremely costly and time-consuming endeavor.
Workers begin by pouring a traditional concrete slab or form mold in virtually any shape imaginable. At this point, surface retarders that prevent the topmost layer of concrete from fully drying can be applied. Once the lower portion dries, the top layer is washed away to reveal the small bits of sand and aggregate. Often however, the concrete is allowed to become almost dry and then - just like the Romans - small bits of stone are spread across the surface and then lightly pressed in evenly. The resulting appearance and texture is guaranteed to be utterly unique due to the individual nature of every piece of concrete and the limitless potential of cheap and diverse aggregate material.
A more expensive but stunning option is to further enhance the exposed aggregate concrete by scouring the raised bits down level with the concrete, and then polishing the entire surface to a brilliant shine. The result has the appearance of exotic cut marble or granite slab.

Chuck Morris is a copywriter living in the Roaring Fork Valley of western Colorado. Chuck is an avid sports enthusiast, and enjoys all that the Colorado outdoors offers, including hiking, camping, fishing, skiing and snowboarding, rafting and just generally having fun outdoors regardless of the season.
In the off seasons, Chuck works construction, and finishes concrete for his favorite Aspen concrete contractor. His favorite kind of concrete work is creating backyard art using exposed aggregate concrete.

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Decorative Concrete - Stained, Stamped, Scored and Polished

Introduction to Decorative Concrete
Decorative concrete, also commonly referred to as architectural concrete, can most easily be described as any technique that alters what would be plain, grey concrete to be more aesthetically pleasing. Decorative concrete can encompass many different looks and techniques. It can include simple coloring techniques such as acid stains, acrylic stains, concrete dyes, and integral colors (also called integrated colors; mixed into the concrete before it is poured). It can also include special treatments including stamping, scoring, chiseling, and polishing that can change the texture of the surface. Many times, decorative concrete integrates multiple techniques to truly customize the slab.
Stained Concrete
Probably one of the most well-known techniques for transforming plain concrete to be more design-friendly is staining, especially for interior applications. This technique involves taking a cured concrete slab and literally staining it to be a different color (or colors). There are two main types of concrete stain. The most common type of concrete stain is an acid stain. It is known for producing rich color. The acid reacts to the concrete and takes on its own life. The result is a marbleized coloring, much like grainy leather. It is probably one of the most difficult stains to work with; it requires much caution while applying because you are working with acid, after all. This stain does not cover defects in the concrete. On the contrary, it will likely show defects, even those you didn't see when the concrete was in its natural state. However, this character that the acid stain reveals is part of the allure of the finished product of an acid stain job. Water-based concrete stains and acrylic concrete stains create a much more uniform look than do acid stains. These stains have a thin, milky consistency, allowing them to seep into the concrete's pores, which differentiates them from any concrete paint, which can flake off because paints simply coat the surface. Because there is no chemical reaction between the stain and the concrete, it applies more like a dye.
It is a better alternative than acid stain for concrete pads that have cosmetic defects because coverage is fairly consistent. However, it is still a semi-translucent stain, so it will not completely disguise soils and other defects in the concrete. Water-based stains are also commonly called concrete dyes. It is often used to accent the work of an acid stain job by giving certain areas of the concrete a different color. Acrylic stains offer a wide variety of deep and bright colors with a much broader selection than acid stain offers. Also, whereas acid stains rely on a reaction with the concrete to produce color, the acrylic stain colors are usually the same in the bottle as they are on the concrete. This makes predicting the outcome much easier. It also allows for easier mixing at the jobsite to match other colors around. After the stain job is complete, it is recommended to put some sort of protective coating on the surface. This will prevent fading and wear. For outdoor applications, a concrete sealer is recommended. A solvent sealer or xylene-based sealer will leave a durable, semi-gloss coat, whereas a water-based sealer will leave a matte finish. For indoor applications, it is generally recommended to apply a wax, much like that which is used on a gym floor. In summary, staining is usually a good option if you have a concrete slab currently that you would like to add color to. Stains do not hide defects in the concrete, nor do they change the texture of the concrete. They simply add a semi-transparent, semi-permanent color. There are many tools and techniques that expand design options when using concrete stain. For example, there are stencils on the market that allow for a color design. Also, scored lines are also commonly used to add a pattern or design into the concrete.
Stain can also be used in conjunction with stamped concrete to add accent coloring. Plus, there are many different ways to apply stain to achieve different looks. advantages of stained concrete. Of course, the greatest advantage of stained concrete is the visual appeal. Staining concrete allows you to turn a functional element into a design element. Plus, with the wide array of colors and designs, staining can be used to compliment almost any design theme. Another advantage of stained concrete is that it is a semi-permanent, durable option. Because you are simply altering the color of concrete without altering its physical strength, your stained concrete will have the life of a boring, white slab (which some concrete is engineered to last more than fifty years!). Also, because the color is actually seeped into the concrete versus a layer on top like paint, it will not flake off like paint tends to. Stain can also be described as a "green" renovation project because you can simply transform what you already have, which means less waste in our landfills caused by starting over. In addition, staining requires no extra material aside from sealer or wax to make the flooring surface ready for use. Stained concrete is just as easy to maintain as a regular concrete slab if not easier because the sealer prevents stains and rinses easily. It may require a new coat of sealer or wax occasionally to maintain the finish. A simple broom or hose will often clean the surface adequately. Finally, another advantage of stained concrete is that it is relatively inexpensive compared to other options while yielding a custom, unique product.
Stamped Concrete
Stamped concrete is another common technique of decorative concrete. It literally involves stamping a pattern and/or texture into freshly laid concrete. That being said, stamped concrete requires that new concrete is poured. This isn't to say that you can't add a stamped pattern or texture to your existing patio, it just requires a few intermediate steps. If you have an existing concrete pad that you want to add a stamped pattern or texture to, it requires adding a layer of concrete or overlay mixture. Of course, concrete is preferable, as it is one of world's most durable materials; however, concrete will require a minimum of two inch height increase. There is another product available, often called an overlay mix, that can be applied as little as three-eighths inches thick. However, this plastic-cement polymer does have a shorter life-span than does concrete. There are limitations to capping your patio with concrete or overlaying it. If your patio is cracked or structurally unsound, it is risky to put any coating on it because that coating will likely crack and shift as well. Capping or overlaying your concrete will effectively hide any stains and minor defects in the concrete, though. The process involves pouring concrete much like you would do for ordinary flatwork. The area is framed up, reinforced with rebar, and smoothed out. In order to stamp, the concrete must be dry enough to not be mushy but wet enough to still hold an impression. The timing is perhaps one of the most difficult aspects of stamping. At this point, large rubber stamps are pounded into the concrete, many times with a tool called a tamper. Some sort of release product is used to keep the stamps from sticking. Other special tools, including "flippie" stamps, grout rollers, etc are used to perfect the area. The coloring of stamped concrete can be achieved in many different ways. Some of the coloring materials available for use with stamped concrete include integral/integrated colors, antiquing release colors, color hardeners, and tinted sealers. Integral colors, also called integrated colors, is color that is mixed into the concrete before it is poured. Integral colors come in both liquid and powder form.
The advantage of integral color is that the color is all the way through the concrete, so if the concrete is ever chipped or scarred, the color will be consistent throughout the slab. Antiquing release colors are usually a powder color applied to the surface before stamping occurs. Its functional aspect is that it keeps the stamps from sticking to the concrete. Its aesthetic aspect is that when the excess powder is scrubbed off, it leave behind great accent coloring in the grooves and crevices. Some release colors also come in a liquid form. Color hardeners are applied to the surface of the concrete. They are used to add color to freshly poured concrete. Because they have a cement content and high PSI, we do not recommend their use in climates that change rapidly because color hardeners can cause what we have coined as a "popcorn" effect, where small circles actually pop out of the surface of the concrete. Color hardeners are usually a powder and come in a wide variety of colors. Tinted sealers are just as you would think; they are sealers that have a transparent color tint added in. Some manufacturers make tinted sealers, or you can simply make them yourself, which is usually a good way to go if you are wanting to mix colors or play with transparency. Before you do this though, you need to know what kind of sealer you have and what kind of color product would mix with it. Tinted sealers also come in a wide variety of color options, especially if you will be making it yourself.
Most of the time, contractors will use a variety of coloring techniques to achieve your look. Contractors may also use the technique that is most familiar to them, leaving the others behind. One thing is for sure: make sure that you quiz your contractor about the coloring techniques they use to make sure you are given the information you need to properly pick your colors. Also, make sure he/she isn't selling you on coloring techniques that may not be suitable for your climate area. advantages of stamped concrete. For the sake of accuracy, this paragraph does not take into account any overlay products because these products do not carry all of the same advantages that concrete does. Stamped concrete, if it is true concrete, often carries with it many advantages. First, it is known for its durability and longevity; after all, it is concrete! Because it is so durable, it can also be described as an environmentally-friendly option because it won't have to be replaced in the near future, meaning more materials won't need to be manufactured and less materials will end up in landfills. Also, it is easy to maintain. The sealer allows cleaning to be as easy as rinsing or sweeping. Occasionally, you will need to recoat the surface with sealer, which is an easy spray or roll on process. Finally, stamped concrete is aesthetically pleasing. It is completely customizable with a wide variety of color combinations and stamp patterns. And, considering how long it will last and how easy it is to maintain, it is a low cost in the long run for a beautiful finish.
Scored Concrete
Scored concrete is a great way to give both new pours and existing pour a new look. Scoring concrete is essentially cutting a shallow cut into the concrete. These cuts can be used to create the illusion of tile or stone or to "draw" a custom pattern or logo into the concrete. Because these lines are actually cut into the concrete, they are as permanent as the slab itself unless covered. Scoring is often combined with colored or stained concrete to accentuate the surface pattern. It can also be applied to plain concrete to just add a touch of decorative design to an otherwise humdrum slab. Concrete can be scored with many different tools, but the most common tools are concrete saws and grinders. Many times a diamond blade is used. For a more rustic or rough look, chiseling the lines is a great method, although it can be more labor intensive and tedious. advantages of scored concrete. Because scoring can be a way to add decorative touches to a slab without tearing out the slab and starting over or covering the slab with other products, it is a very economical and eco-friendly approach to decorative concrete. Also, it is as permanent as the slab is, which means there will be little to no upkeep. Maintenance will involve simple cleaning, which is as easy as sweeping or rinsing. If the scored concrete is sealed, it may require resealing periodically. Finally, the biggest advantage of scored concrete is that it is completely custom.
Polished Concrete
Polished concrete is, just as it sounds, a concrete slab that is polished down until a shiny finish is achieved. These smooth, high-luster floors, if done correctly, do not require any wax or sealer, making it a great option for warehouses, retail locations, etc. But, homeowners are quickly learning that this technique can be utilized for a low maintenance interior flooring. The process is similar in theory to sanding wood. You start with a rough pad and grind into the concrete. Then you move to smoother and smoother pads, step by step, until your finished product is a shiny, smooth floor. Usually, there will be exposed aggregate, making it a neat look. Polished concrete can be stained for some extra color. Or, integral color can be used before the pour to add color throughout. Special, and expensive, tools and materials are often necessary to get a polished finish. advantages of polished concrete. Polished concrete is very durable because it is concrete, one of the most durable materials known to man. It is also very low maintenance because wax or sealer may not be necessary. Sometimes, if the floor loses its luster, it may be necessary to re-polish the floor, repeating the last steps of the polishing process. Polished concrete can also be a great design feature because it is unique and customizable. Colors can be added for a different look, and even special aggregates can be added, aggregates that are only exposed because of the polishing process.
Sealing Concrete
All architectural concrete, except polished concrete and interior stained concrete, should be sealed regularly to maintain its beauty and durability. This process can be outsourced to a concrete company, or it can be a great do-it-yourself project. The process is usually very easy, requiring a spray-on or roll-on application. Some sealers are even mop-on. The most important aspect of resealing a patio is knowing what the original coat of sealer is. If you choose the wrong sealer, you can end up with a huge mess that will be time and money demanding to repair. It is best to contact whoever sealed your patio the first time to know what kind of sealer you should use to recoat your decorative concrete. Sealing concrete makes it stain and fade resistant. It is a protective coating that usually gives a bit of a sheen to the surface, bringing out the richness of the colors used in the decorative concrete, no matter which technique. Many times, freshly sealed concrete can be described as making the concrete look wet. Many times an older patio can be resealed to make it look like new again. Plain concrete can also be sealed for a more modern look that is easy to maintain and resistant to being stained. Sealing concrete will not cover any existing flaws in the slab. Stains will likely be accentuated by the sealant, and scratches or cracks will only be covered with a clear coat. Tinted sealers, as discussed above, can be used to add some color to a slab, whether it is plain or decorative.
concrete vs. other flooring options
Tile. Tiles can come in a variety of colors and patterns, but you are limited to what options are presented to you. Concrete offers the flexibility to choose your look, much like mixing paint. Tile requires a stable pad on which to be laid, which means often times you will need concrete anyway. Plus, the concrete, tile, and grout expands and contracts at different rates, making it susceptible to cracking, especially in outdoor conditions. Also, with tile comes grout lines, which means you have to scrub grout lines. Enough said? natural stone/flagtone. Much like tile, flagstone and natural stone usually requires a concrete base and grout for a semi-permanent slab, which means it comes with the same disadvantages as tile. Plus, you are limited to what mother nature makes, versus picking your own colors with concrete. If the concrete base or grout/mortar are not used, you will end up with an uneven nightmare with weeds growing between the stones. That doesn't sound like fun! brick. Brick carries with it the same issues as natural stone, flagstone, and tile. >linoleum/vinyl. Although cheap and easy to care for, linoleum and vinyl are not as durable as concrete, nor do they have the aesthetic and "rich" look that concrete offers. Wood. Although beautiful, wood is not the easiest to maintain. It can easily scratch or nick, and it often requires revamp after a few years, especially if not maintained properly. Plus, unless it is taken from sustainable forests, can have negative effects on the forest and wildlife therein. Carpet. Carpet's main disadvantage is that it easily stains. Even stain resistant carpet is much more likely to stain than sealed , waxed, or polished concrete. Plus, the manufacturing process is not always best for the environment, the chemicals it emits into the home can be harmful, and it retains allergens and pollutants, causing issues for those with breathing problems and allergies.

Tasha Lucas
Monster Constructors - http://www.monsterconstructors.com
Decorative Concrete - http://www.monsterconstructors.com/dfw-decorative-concrete.htm

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Exposed Aggregate Vs Stamped Concrete

Exposed aggregate concrete is a very decorative style of concrete design which also gives a non-skid texture to the structure. The particulate aggregate matter of the concrete is pronouncedly visible on the top layer of the concrete giving an awesome appealing finish to the concrete structure. It is used in various places like driveways, patios and sidewalks.
The exposed aggregate concrete mixture is essentially the same concrete mixture that is used in general purposes. The top concrete surface should be worked right enough to create a nice layer of cream on the top surface. With no water on the top surface and the concrete thick enough to allow ½" depression of thumb, colorful pellets of gravel/pebbles or choice of aggregate should be spread uniformly across the surface. The top cream layer wouldn't be soft enough hold on to the gravels/pebbles, a wet mixture of sand and cement (3:1/4:1) has to be applied over the spread out pebbles/gravels. The gravels/pebbles need to be pressed into the concrete with a uniform and medium pressure by using a wooden float so that the flat surface of gravels are facing up and complete shape of the gravels are visible. The top surface has to be finely brushed and later cleaned in order to expose the shiny aggregate.
Exposed aggregate concrete is skid-resistant, strong and handles extreme conditions. This surface requires very little maintenance other than re-sealing and water cleaning annually. Adding the coarse aggregates to the top of the concrete mixture and toweling makes wear surface very lean and that is a disadvantage of this design.
Stamped concrete is a decorative style to give concrete structures a unique look. The concrete mixture is stamped with various molded shapes repetitively to give a uniform stamped look. This variety is used in pavements, driveways, patios or sidewalks.
The concrete mixture is poured into the construction area, spread and leveled. The excess bleed water is allowed to evaporate from the surface of the concrete. When the concrete surface is firm enough to allow a depression of ½" thumb, its ready to be stamped. Stamps are available widely in the market as rubber stamps, wooden stamps etc. The first stamps needs to be put on the concrete surface and pressed just enough and not much with hand only. The other stamps are needed to be put snugly fitting the first and consecutive once so that they completely cover the area and hand tampered. Once all the stamps have been laid out the stamps need to taken out from the first laid stamp very carefully by not disturbing the other stamps. Concrete sealers might be added for durability.
It is really cheap to apply stamped concrete as the stamps are readily available and any shape can be used as stamps. It gives a great look to the concrete pavements and patios easily. Single or dual tone colors can be made in this type. This kind of concrete is very susceptible to deicing agents and deteriorates very easily. Also it loses it sheen and luster quickly than other types.

E N J Construction is a Fort McMurray contracting company that provides services for construction, landscaping in Fort McMurray, stucco installation Fort McMurray and concrete in Fort McMurray. To find out more information about E N J construction for your stucco, concrete and landscaping services in Fort McMurray, Alberta, please visit our website by clicking on the above underlined links.

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Concrete Grinding Brings Superior Quality and Durability To Virtually Any Concrete Surface

The key reasons why concrete grinding machines have grown more accepted
More and more people are enjoying the advantages of employing concrete grinding machines, not just those people who utilise it commercially but additionally in non commercial building projects. Concrete grinding machines are usually a great way to break up deposits of dirt and grime, oil and several other commercial contaminates that could have made their way onto the concrete floors. Additionally, they are perfect for leveling out an uneven surface. Concrete grinders are able to unveil the intrinsic appeal of your floor by leaving you with fabulous polished concrete. Following the use of a concrete grinder, it is possible to make use of chemicals to give you a long lasting finish that will last for a longer period of time.
It is true that the majority of such machines are serving many functions. As well as the previously mentioned benefits, they are also often utilized in the construction of swimming pool decks, pathway pavers, terrace layering, and a number of other projects. For example, one single disc grinder can easily function on concrete slabs, terrazzo, ceramic tile floors, brick, along with stone, numerous added benefits from just one single machine.
Concrete grinding machines can be utilized to remove coatings, small pits, mastics, imperfections, light coatings, staining, urethane, or even epoxy from the floor in preparation for a final smoothing job.
When polishing concrete there are many ways of achieving a special finish, not least the inclusion of recycled glass that can be 'seeded' into the concrete to create a finish that is more beautiful that might be imagined. This effect is one that is used in many very unique finishes, and is popular with large stores and home owners who are moving towards the concrete finish.
They are cost efficient as well as strong
Using concrete grinding machines is actually affordable. For a small investment it provides a resistant finish that is undoubtedly going to last forever. Concrete is not only resilient but also has low maintenance needs. With the proper application of surface chemicals a concrete floor will be a particularly low-maintenance and long lasting choice.
Finding the perfect quality for your personal needs
When you are working with precision equipment to perform the job you want to be certain that you get the absolute best concrete grinding equipment you can depend upon each and every time. That's why countless numbers of specialists depend on concrete grinding equipment from MK Diamond Australia.
Whatever your concrete grinding demands, there's a lot to be said for taking guidance or, within the situation of bigger jobs, utilizing skilled concrete grinders to give you the greatest finish you'll be able to possibly hope for.

Visit MK Diamond online for all your Concrete Grinding needs.

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Perfect Concrete Floor

Most concrete floors and cement slabs crack because of poor compacting of the subgrade. Most concrete contractors take the time and effort to do this. But in case you get one of those other guys it wouldn't hurt to make sure, compacting the subgrade is one of your concerns when you shop for a cement contractor. Your subgrade should be compacted in no more than six inch lifts. For every six inches of dirt thrown in to an area the contractor should compact it.
If your house is being built in a wet or swampy area you want to put a little extra cash into the preparation. Have your cement contractor run some perforated tile under the cement floor through the footings. These will run into drainage pits filled with pea gravel. Then cover the subgrade of your concrete floor with four inches of pea gravel. This will keep the pressure of the water from pushing its way through the basement floor. Having too much water in your cement mix will give cracking in your floor. Concrete should be poured with a consistent slump. This is the consistency of the concrete off the end of the chute. You want to have the concrete a little stiff but workable. What you don't want to see is the concrete coming out of the chute looking like soup. The more water in the mix, the more the concrete will shrink and crack. Cement slabs can shrink as much as a half inch in one hundred feet as the excess water evaporates from the poured slab. Excess water will greatly reduce the strength of the concrete.
Your concrete will also crack if it dries to fast. As your cement floor dries, spray a light mist of water on the top so it won't dry rapidly. Another thing you can do to prevent rapid drying is cover the cement slab up with plastic or a light tarp. If the basement floor is being poured with the floor already installed, it probably will dry without any problems.Have your contractor put control joints in your concrete floor as its being finished or cut in while it is still green. All concrete contractors have had a floor get a crack here or there. Sometimes cracks are unpreventable, that's why control joints are so important. The control joint creates a stress relief in the cement and prevents the floor finish from cracking.

Hi, I'm Alan Slagle. I research different subjects and write articles for my websites. I am a native of Northern Michigan and have three adult children. I've built homes for twenty years and thought I would share some of my expertise on my new website.
http://www.buildingcontractors49601.com

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Put a Great Finish on Your Concrete

Broom finish, flagstone, color, texture, swirling, and more. All finishes to newly poured concrete. And all finishes anyone can do themselves. Any one of those finishes will give your patio or sidewalk something besides the same old look. The questions are, what do you do and how do you do it? However before we get that far, I am assuming you know how to prepare, form, mix and pour the concrete. If not, go to link resource box for information that will assist you. And if you do, read on.
Let's start with Broom Finishing. It's not too difficult to do. When the concrete surface is sufficiently set drag a soft broom or brush lightly across the concrete. For even less texture wait until the surface has further hardened. With concrete the timing is important. If your initial brooming left too heavy a finish you will have to retrowel the surface to remove all traces of the first finish, wait a few (or more) minutes and rebroom. If you like the look of the broom finish, but think a little something extra in the brooming would look better. Try this. As you drag the broom across the surface of your concrete pad move it back and forth sideways just a little. No more than 2 - 3 inches in each direction. Doing that will put what is know as a wavy finish to your concrete sidewalk or patio.
Another way to give your sidewalk or patio a different appearance is with a shell or swirling finish. Each is done by using a wood hand float while the concrete is still fairly wet (again trial and error. The swirling look is done by randomly moving the wood float across the surface in no apparent pattern. It will rough up the surface and give it a somewhat coarse look. The shell finish is done in a similar fashion, but, instead of the swirling random strokes, a shell pattern is applied. For the shell finish you hold the wood float on the surface of the concrete and move the top of the float from side to side while keeping the bottom of the float in one place. Then move the float right next to your first shell and do another (again trial and error. Keep this up until the entire surface has been covered with your shell pattern. You probably will have to make several attempts at this before you are satisfied with how it looks. Don't get discouraged if it doesn't look 'right' at first. Just practice a few strokes and it will come to you.
Color is no doubt the quickest and easiest thing you can do to give your concrete a different look. There are three ways to color your concrete. The first is to put color in the concrete mix before it is poured into the forms. The second way is to apply it to the surface of the concrete while it is still wet. And the third is staining.
You can purchase color and stains for concrete at just about any lumberyard and home improvement store. None of the three color methods are difficult to do. With the first you put the color in the concrete mix before it is poured in your forms. In this case just follow the directions given with the color. In the second method you spread the color uniformly across the surface of your concrete while it is still wet and then use the float to spread it around and into the concrete. Then finish the concrete as usual. Staining is the last color method. There are two types of stain. Regular and semi-transparent and both are applied to new concrete after it has cured. Regular stain is like paint. It goes on and covers completely. Semi-transparent stain goes on the same way (use a paintbrush, a spray can, a roller, I saw one done with a mop and it looked pretty good), but there is a difference. It can be applied in layers. Since the stain is semi-transparent the existing surface of your concrete sidewalk or patio will show through the first few layers of stain. The more times you apply the stain to the surface the less the original concrete coloration below will show up. In this situation it's all a matter of preference.
A flagstone pattern finish is a little trickier than the others. Here you float as usual and then make the flagstone while the concrete is still workable. Get a piece of 1/2 or 3/4" inch diameter copper pipe and bend it into an S shape. Hold on to one end of the pipe and press the other into the concrete. Then just pull it across the surface. What you are wanting to do is make a falgstone pattern with random geometric shapes on the surface of the concrete. After you have finished with making the flagstone you will need to refloat the concrete. The final step here is whether you want a boom finish on top of the flagstone or a smooth one. For a broom finish you follow the previous listed instructions.
Finally there are several other effects you can give concrete. A leaf finish is certainly distinctive. After floating and troweling just press some leaves into the surface immediately after trowleing. They should be embedded completely, but not covered. Leave them in place until the concrete is set and then remove them. Other items can be pressed into concrete for patterns too. You can make round impressions in the surface by using cans. Anything you think that might will leave an attractive mark on the concrete is worth considering. Give it a try.
One finish I didn't discuss is exposed aggregate. I believe it would be too difficult for anyone with limited or no previous experience working with concrete.
That's it. Good luck with your project.

For more info on floating and troweling go to: http://www.howtodoconcretepatios.com

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Decorative Concrete - What You Should Know About Cracks & Color Variations

Though I normally espouse the wonders and joys of decorative concrete applications, I feel I should also inform about the other side of the coin: no matter what the color or stamp design reflects, it is still concrete. Your new patio may look like a gorgeous slate, but it is not. It is concrete. What does this mean? Well, it means that although concrete has limitless design options and can me formed into almost any design, mimicking many other building materials; it does have minor limitations. A seasoned decorative concrete contractor knows this, and will install the concrete according to industry standards in order to best prevent cracks or color mishaps.
That said, these issues do arise on occasion. Let us begin with cracks in your brand new stamped concrete pool deck. Firstly, expansion joints are cut into the concrete to prevent cracks from occurring. However, everything from heavy loads travelling on the stamped concrete to land settlement underneath the concrete can cause a crack regardless of expansion joints. Proper cutting of the joints should alleviate this issue, and more often than not, it will. Secondly, when concrete cures it shrinks. This can cause cracks as well and even the most experienced concrete contractor cutting the best expansion joints in the world will not always win that battle. Lastly, a somewhat common "side effect" of stamped concrete is hairline cracks forming around the lines made by the stamping tools once the surface begins to harden. This is called "crusting" and typically will occur due to sun and wind. Obviously, sun and wind will quicken the hardening of the concrete surface. Another reason crusting occurs is due to the color of the concrete. Darker colors, as we all know, draw the sun's rays and absorb the heat. Stamping tools with deeper grout lines for creating designs like random stone or slate patterns often aggravate the crusting. Many people feel that these hairline cracks add to the look of the stamped concrete design, giving it an "Old World" look. This aged appearance typically lends to the overall design. These imperfections are generally thought of as appealing. Although cracks can be repaired, the end result of the repair tends to be much more obvious than the unrepaired crack.
Now let us move on to coloring mishaps. Actually, "mishaps" is not the correct word here. A "mishap" would occur via accident. What I am referring to here is customer acceptance of the finished color on their new concrete. Depending on the method of coloring concrete (and there are quite a few) different factors come in to play in order for the concrete contractor to mix up the color chosen by the customer. However, as the customer there are a few things required of you in order to be sure you are receiving the color you want. A good practice would be to find photos of finished colored concrete patios, et. al. that show the color that you are striving to achieve, and submit to your contractor. However, understanding that there are variables involved with coloring or staining concrete that can affect the color outcome is key. Sometimes, the stars align and the concrete color turns out exactly as envisioned. And then there are times when this simply is not the case.
For instance, here are a few conditions that can, and most times will, cause color variations:

• Customer is not available during color mixing. This will be a problem because if the customer is not present to approve color prior to installation, he/she may end up with a beautiful new colored concrete patio in a shade too dark or too light, or just not right. It is important for the customer to be present during color mixing to ensure happiness with the color.
• Concrete job requires more than one truck load of concrete. Color will vary slightly from one batch to the next. This is to be expected and should be understood from the beginning.
• Finished concrete color does not match sample chip or color chart. Never expect the final outcome to completely match up to the sample chip or color chart. Samples are just that: samples. Sample chips and color charts are meant to be more of a guide to the color. Mixing concrete color is not an exact science and should not be thought of as so. After all, even the best decorative concrete contractor in the area is only human!
• Placing concrete at different ages. Placement of concrete at different ages will cause a slight color variation. This should be kept in mind during larger concrete projects, though it should not be more than a slight variation.

Keeping all of the above in mind, as well as understanding that job site conditions and seasonal weather issues can affect the final outcome, should have a happy customer in the end. However a homeowner not aware of such things, but has a definite idea of what he/she wants in terms of color, can end up disappointed. The contractor doesn't want that, and certainly the homeowner doesn't want that. An understanding from the get-go that color variation is a normal occurrence should keep the customer happy through to the end.Obviously, nobody wants to spend their hard earned cash on a concrete job that they feel is imperfect. As with any significant home improvement purchase, proper research on decorative concrete applications will school you on what to expect in terms of installation, appearance, design, maintenance, and repair. The most important aspect of this article is the desire to make the customer happy by keeping the lines of communication open between you, the homeowner, and your concrete contractor; as well as preparing you with important knowledge to consider when designing your concrete project.

Keystone Specialty Construction has many years experience in all areas of home improvement, with a special focus on decorative concrete applications, pools & spas and home remodels and services the Greater Philadelphia Area.
http://www.kscconstructionllc.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kimberly_Vernon

Polished Concrete Process

Polished concrete is strong, durable and low maintenance while having that earthy texture of stone with a polish equal to granite. Here is how it is done.
It is similar to traditional polished terrazzo which is very flat and poured as a special mix to make the finish more successful. Polished concrete floors can also look almost bumpy and have little or no aggregate showing. Flatness and polishing are not necessarily the same thing which is a good point to clear up before agreeing to your project.
It costs extra time and diamond wear to cut floors with a concrete grinder until they are flat. They can either be ground flat to fully expose the aggregate like terrazzo, or the aggregate can be partially exposed, or the concrete grinding can expose no more than the fine sands at the surface. It often takes skill and experience to control the process of polished concrete floors and the quality of the concreter's original laying work is also a contributing factor in the quality of the finish. Where the aggregate is a feature special materials can be added to the wet concrete mix such as coloured pebbles, metals and glass to enhance the final appearance.
Most people are unaware that there are ten to fifteen steps for polished concrete floors which takes a long time to complete and can be quite expensive.
Typically it takes many grinding passes to finish a highly polished floor although there are other ways as explained later. The general rule is to double the diamond grit size under the concrete grinder for each pass so a contractor might start with very coarse, 16 or 32 grit size diamonds, then use 60 grit diamonds followed by 120, then start again with a 50 grit diamond resin pad instead of a metal segment. Using the resin pads the steps may be 100, then 200, 400, 800, 1500 and finally 3000 grit. That would be ten separate grinding passes which does not count the two other essential steps.
Two more essential steps:
1. Hardening the surface
Polished concrete floors usually have the surface hardened with a chemical before the second, third or fourth grinding pass. The chemical soaks into the floor to a few millimeters (up to half an inch) and causes a chemical reaction to take place that makes the floor harder and easier to polish to a high finish. These floors are very strong and durable without having a surface coating.
2. Filling holes
After the first concrete grinder pass removes the top layer of concrete paste it will expose millions of tiny air holes. If these are not filled before the hardening process then the final polished concrete floor will show these unsightly imperfections. The holes are usually filled with an acrylic tile adhesive type of product mixed with either the grinding dust or cement powder which is hand scraped across the floor using a trowel. The preferred way to fill the holes is to spray the acrylic adhesive ahead of the grinder so that the diamonds mix it into the holes with the grinding dust on the third or fourth pass at around 120 grit. This method is faster and the dust matches the colour of the floor to hide the holes better than when using cement powder.
Very flat or slightly bumpy polished?
Some floor grinder machines are designed to produce a very flat floor by cutting off the high spots while some others are designed to follow the contours of the floor more. If the surface is to be polished without necessarily exposing the aggregate then only the finer resin pads need to be used on a concrete grinder that allows for movement of the pads so they can follow the contours of the surface. This will result in a polished floor without showing the pattern and texture of the exposed aggregates within the concrete which is faster and less expensive. Hardening can still be an advantage to help the durability of the surface and to produce a final gloss.
Problems with exposed aggregate
Sometimes the finish of exposed aggregate can be uneven if the mix of concrete was poured unevenly or finished off poorly. Boot marks or kneeling board marks can appear suddenly because they have pushed the aggregate down further which might require grinding down another two or three millimeters (quarter of an inch) which will cost more than was quoted. Grinding this far may not be what the customer wanted either so it can be a risk.
Single head or multiple head machines
Original terrazzo grinding was done with single head floor grinders until the production of three-head planetary machines. Planetary means that each head turns one direction while the turntable that houses the heads turns independently in either the same direction or the opposite direction. Some grinders can vary the direction of both the turntable and the heads and some can vary the speed of each. There are also multiple head planetary machines with four or more heads.
The planetary heads can follow the contours better than single or twin head grinders and are faster to use with less effort due to eliminating the requirement to physically move the grinder from side to side or in a circular motion. Single head terrazzo grinders should be moved in a circular motion to avoid grinding lips or shoulders.
Edging
As with wood floors the edges must be finished separately to the main floor area because the large machines may bump and damage the walls if they are used too close. For the first grinding passes a nine inch angle grinder is used having a diamond wheel attached with a dust extraction shroud fitted to remove the dust. The sit-down-to-use edge grinders are more controllable than stand up grinders while kneel-to-use grinders have good control, but are exhausting.
After the first two or three cuts a different dust extraction shroud with a corner feature is used with a seven inch polisher or a five inch, multi speed grinder to polish with resin pads and get tight into the corners.
Simple polished concrete floors "look"
The number of processes for polishing concrete can be reduced by up to 60% and still achieve a similar appearance by grinding and then coating with a clear sealer. The first step is to grind with 30/40 grit diamonds to expose the aggregate, then fill all the small air holes as described above (in 10 to 15 steps....) before a second grind with 60/80 grit or 80/100 grit diamonds.
This will produce a smooth enough surface to coat with a sealer. Polyurethanes are very hard sealers with a high gloss and can be purchased as UV stable to stop yellowing (usually double the price of non UV stable urethanes), clear epoxy sealers are not as smooth and will chalk and deteriorate if exposed to sunlight and acrylic sealers have a much shorter lifespan due to their poor resistance to wear. Two coats are necessary to provide a high gloss level.
Different ways to achieve "polished concrete"
The first is to cut the floor with coarse diamonds until all the high spots have been removed to produce a flat floor and then use all of the 12 to 15 steps to eventually polish it or as it is sometimes called, hone it. This is the true polishing system.
A variation of the above is to cut perhaps half of the height of the higher peaks by starting with a medium coarse diamond grit and proceed through to polishing using a machine that can ride up and over small rises.
A third alternative way of producing a honed surface is to start with relatively fine diamonds and simply polish to top of the surface after hardening without removing much of the top cement paste. It is easier to do this when the floor has been laid flat and smooth.
Lastly, a "polished look" can be obtained by grinding with coarse diamonds and then fine diamonds before coating over with a clear sealer.
Only truly polished floors will retain their gloss with little maintenance because all coatings scratch with wear and lose their high shine. Special buffing pads on a standard floor polisher that contain very fine diamonds can be used to maintain cleanliness and the high gloss levels of true polished concrete. Janitors can be provided with these and keep the floors in great condition without special treatment.
Some hire companies provide the grinding equipment for do-it-yourself concrete polishing and have all the pads for the purpose. This may not be so economical though because the pads may be only half worn when you finish depending on the area involved.

Ron Black has worked in the polished concrete industry with experience in both grinding and machines. He is part of Situp Products' team and has written many pages of information for the concrete grinding website http://www.situp.com.au

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ron_Black

Concrete Crack Injection Analysis

If your basement is leaking, there are quite a few methods available for waterproofing it. Some are pretty involved and pricey, while others are quick and painless-for you and your wallet. One such method is concrete crack injection. Below you will find everything you need to know about this solution to your wet basement issues.
For poured concrete walls
Unfortunately, concrete crack injection will not work for all basements. The composition of your basement walls determines whether or not you can utilize this basement waterproofing method. If your walls are composed of cinder blocks, you are out of luck. Basement crack injection will only work for poured concrete walls. However, it's necessary to mention that having poured concrete walls doesn't necessarily qualify you for this repair method. Other factors may come into play.
How to determine if it will work for you
Since you aren't a foundation repair specialist, you can only guess if concrete crack injection will work in your basement. But speculation is not enough when it comes to something as crucial as your foundation walls. The only way you can truly be sure which repair method will work for you is to call a licensed basement waterproofing contractor. They will come into your home and diagnose your basement wall problems for free. They'll write up an estimate and tell you exactly what they can do to help. If you're lucky, basement crack injection will work for you. In other cases, you may need a French drain system or some other repair method.
The process
It's a simple process, really. First a technician will install ports every foot on the basement wall cracks. Then the cracks will get covered with a temporary surface bond. At this point, the technician injects the cracks with the Polyurethane solution. He will begin at the bottom and fill each crack until the solution reaches the top. The surface bond will hold the solution in the crack until it dries. Drying generally takes between 24 to 48 hours. Once the solution has been given plenty of time to dry, you can sand off the surface bond and finish off the walls.
Doing it yourself
In this tough economy, many homeowners are increasingly deciding to perform their own repairs to save money. In many situations, that's perfectly okay. That said, some people look at the concrete crack injection process and think it looks easy. So they try to do it themselves. Don't be fooled-there are plenty of things that can go wrong. You might not thoroughly fill the cracks. You may use an inadequate filler. Whatever the mistake, it will be one you can't afford to make. Moisture in your basement isn't something you want to play around with. If you don't do the job properly, you'll subject your basement to water penetration. So it's best to let a professional come in and do it right the first time. It's cheaper than you might think!
Remember, if you have a wet basement, you need to take care of it as quickly as possible. And you don't want to take care of it by trying to fix it yourself. Call a professional and see if concrete crack injection will work for you.

Know more about basement crack injection and basement waterproofing grand rapids at StayDryWaterProofing.Com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brown_Dave

Water-Based Acrylic Concrete Sealer For Decorative Concrete

Many don't people realize that contractors can color and stamp plain concrete to make it look like a whole host of other materials. Stone patios, brick entranceways, field stone walkways and cobblestone driveways are routinely done using patterns and coloring on the concrete. The benefit for customers is that this decorative concrete work can be done at a fraction of the real materials that they mimic. Unlike many of the real materials, however, the concrete needs to be sealed to protect the coloring agent.
Whether the concrete is colored, dyed, stained or powder coated, the color layer will wear ayway from normal foot and vehicle traffic. By sealing the concrete with an acrylic sealer, the coloring layer is protected for several years. The sealers have the added benefit of darkening the color and giving it a gloss finish.
Acylic Sealers
Acrylic sealers are the most common sealers used in the decorative concrete industry. This is because they are UV resistant and do not yellow with age. They are very easy to use, even for a novice. And unlike polyurethanes, acrylics are not moisture intolerant during application and until they cure. This makes them much easier to apply.
Acrylic sealers also protect the concrete from water, de-icing salts, oil, grease and other stain causing liquids.
Water-based Acrylic Sealers
Many states are now regulating how much VOC (volatile organic compounds) can be in concrete sealers.
This is to improve the air quality in these areas. In many states, such as California and the Northeast, traditional solvent based sealers cannot be used at all. One alternative is to use a water-based acrylic sealer. These sealers provide a medium gloss and can be applied even when the concrete is wet. They have the added benefit of being very low odor and are therefore the preferred sealer for interior projects.
Just like you should not use a latex paint over an existing oil based paint, water-based acrylic sealers should not be used over an existing solvent based sealer. The older sealer will not allow the new sealer to properly bond.
The sealer should be reapplied every two years or so since it will wear away from exposure and traffic. Simply clean the area to be resealed and apply the acrylic sealer.

This article is written by Aaron Kuertz with Applied Technologies Aaron has been in the waterproofing industry since 1998. Applied Technologies is a manufacturer and supplier to professional waterproofing contractors and homeowners in the United States. To learn more about acrylic concrete sealers visit Applied Technologies on the web.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Aaron_Kuertz

How to Form and Pour a Concrete Patio

Building a concrete patio is not a real major project for a homeowner. With a little help on pour day to move and finish the concrete, you can depending upon the size of the patio, form and prep a patio one weekend and pour and finish it the next. If you can reach the patio with the redi-mix concrete truck the work is much easier but if you have to wheel barrow the concrete, you need to look real hard at what is involved. We will use a ten foot by twenty foot patio as our example.
That size patio four inches thick would use 2.45 cubic yards of concrete. (10 x 20 x.33 /27=2.45) You would order three yards of concrete. A real good idea is to pre-make some stepping stones forms and use whatever concrete is left over from your patio pour. Once your new patio area is cleared of any rocks, brush or other debris you must remove any topsoil or sod that remains behind. Topsoil is very unstable when wet and can cause the ground to shift and thereby crack the patio. If you are filling in an area and want to pour right away it is strongly suggested you fill in the low areas with pure gravel. Gravel does not compact like earth and will not sink when wet. If you do not plan to pour the patio until a few months pass, you can use earth as back fill. Mother nature will help compact the earth with rain.
If you can use a mechanical vibratory tamper, so much the better. In any case the ground beneath the patio has to be rock solid. If the patio has square edges you can form the patio with two by four lumber. Since the edge face of the patio will not show, the condition of the two by fours only need to be straight to provide a nice straight edge of the concrete.
Knots or other blemishes do mot matter. Frame the patio edge and anchor the two by fours using wood stakes driven flush with the top of your form if possible. This will make screeding (leveling) of the concrete and edge finishing that much easier. If you desire a curved edge to your patio, cut some 1/4 inch plywood strips for forms as they are easily bendable.A ten foot by twenty foot patio can easily be poured and finished by two people. Tools you will need are, a straight edge twelve feet long, hand trowels or magnesium floats, edging finisher tool, center line finisher tool and a light wide broom for finishing. Assume that you can access the patio with the concrete truck, starting at one end the driver will drop the concrete right across the form work as you use your straight edge and trowels to push the concrete into its rough shape. A good driver can see how fast you are working and speed up or slow down the concrete placement.
He can also place the concrete at a almost perfect four inches thick or nearly so. This saves a lot of back breaking labor pulling and shoveling the concrete into place. Once the concrete is in place some edge work can be done right away to smooth any areas that did not come out properly using the screed board. The concrete will have to sit for a short time depending on the weather and outside air temperature to get whats called an initial "set".
You must keep a careful eye as if the concrete sets up too much it will become unworkable for finishing. As soon as a finger leaves a dent in the surface when lightly touched, use he edger tool and place a nice smooth rounded edge on the exterior of the patio. Using the center line tool with creates a double edge crease, place a dividing line in the center of the twenty foot dimension, making two ten by ten foot squares. This is done to control any cracks that may develop later.
Using your hand trowels, gently smooth any ridges left by the edger tools. There is a magical moment when you must start using the broom to apply a broom finish. Too wet and the broom will sink, too dry and the broom will not leave brush marks. Just keep checking and you will know when to start. DO NOT leave the concrete to go eat or whatever. It is often a grave mistake that may ruin the entire job. Some words of caution. If you are pouring on a hot summer day in the sun, the concrete will dry very quickly. Make sure you have enough help to handle the concrete. Lastly if you cannot access the patio area with the redi-mix truck use this info to help figure how many extra people you will need.
A yard of concrete is approximately 6-7 masons wheel barrows. Not the homeowners little plastic barrows, but the steel deep wheel barrows used on construction sites. They will be very heavy. Uphill they are even heavier. Three yards means there will be eighteen to twenty-one trips made back and forth. You will be placing the concrete as it comes to you so you need plenty of extra hands. Tools all have to be washed after using them as well as anything that the concrete was splashed on during the work. Concrete has lime in it which will etch glass, anodized finishes, cloth, vinyl siding and so on.
Remove it as quickly as possible. Lastly, wear protective goggles and long sleeved shirts if your skin is sensitive. If you wish to apply a concrete stain for color, keep foot traffic off the patio to keep it clean and apply stain at the manufactures recommended time.

Pete
Your Friendly Building Inspector
http://www.Wagsys.com
BICES-Building Inspection & Code Enforcement System Software
Pete is a 30+ year building inspector with experience in both public and private construction industries. From schools to treatment plants, from private homes and condo projects, to large residential landscaping projects, he has worked both in the building design areas and field construction in the Eastern US. In 2006 he formed along with two other building inspectors, Wagsys LLC which produced software for municipal agencies in the fields of building departments, planning boards and Zoning Boards of Appeals.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Peter_Ackerson

Concrete - Its Care and Protection

Concrete is known to be one of the real hard substances that we use in abundance for most of the construction purposes but, it is still susceptible to damage and mutilation. The factors that affects the deterioration of concrete are ice, salt, early/heavy traffic, weather to mention the most important of all.
Frost/ice/snow whatever we call it plays a dangerous role in deteriorating a concrete structure. During winter water frequently freezes and thaws on the concrete thereby soaking into the upper layer of the concrete. As we all know water increases in volume by 9% when it freezes, hence the internal pressure blows apart the concrete and create cracks. To endure this kind of conditions concrete needs to be air-entrained (trapping air bubbles), a minimum of 4000 PSI or 6 bag mix (564 lbs cement per cubic yard) and a maximum of 4 inch slump (minimum amount of water mixed). Additionally the concrete must be moist cured at 50F for 7 days to attain the 3/4th strength and it is left covered with insulated blankets for 28 days to attain full strength to be able to sustain harsh freeze-thaw cycles. A liquid curing compound is sprayed on the surface of the installed concrete so that the water from the top layer does not evaporate.
Heavy traffic bearing concretes can be protected from cracking by the use of pre-cast or re-enforced concretes with steel re bars which equally distributes the force applied all over the structure and increases the durability. Moreover the construction ground should be stamped even and compacted before pouring the concrete so that there are no chances that the concrete is uneven in the surface below.
Deicing salts can cause heavy damage to concrete. The chemical ingredients can react with the concrete and disintegrate the consistency, gradually corroding the concrete structure. To protect concrete against harsh chemicals or even harsh weather, layers of concrete coatings may be applied. Discussed briefly below are a few common layers.
1. Concrete overlay - This thin coating of concrete overlay serves as a basic protection mechanism. It is used in restoring uneven, cracked and chipped surfaces. To make this overlay more effective sometimes polymer resins are mixed with the overlay to provide more strength and durability.
2. Acrylic Sealer - This sealer protects the interior as well as exterior surfaces from damage. This coating is available in both water and oil bases and has both glossy and matte texture.
3. Polyurethane Coating - This coating is a thicker variant of sealers providing superior durability and protection from damage. This coating may be applied to interior or exterior surfaces and has the flexibility to provide colorful look by addition of pigments.
4. Penetrating Sealers -As the name suggests it penetrates to the top layer of the concrete creating a barrier against moisture, deicing chemicals etc. They provide a great protection from freezing temperatures too.
5. Epoxy Coating - This kind of coating is very resistant to superficial injuries or chemicals. Once the actual coating has been applied to the concrete structure a textured top coating may be applied for anti-slippery features and better overview.

ENJ Construction is a fort mcmurray alberta canada company that provides services for construction, landscaping, stucco installation and concrete. To find out more information about ENJ construction for your stucco, concrete and landscaping services in fort mcmurray alberta, please visit our website for a quote on concrete in Fort McMurray.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marwan_M_Saleh

When Do You Choose Concrete or Asphalt?

Which is better concrete or asphalt? This question still remains unanswered. In order to answer this question you must take multiple factors into consideration, such as: What pavement option is better for the specific area being covered? Is concrete or asphalt more cost effective? What is the up keep on concrete versus asphalt? These are the three questions, among many others, you must consider when deciding if concrete or asphalt is better. However, all three questions can have three different answers depending on each individual job and your budget.
The specific area being covered and what purpose it serves helps determine whether to use concrete or asphalt. If you have a deck around a pool you will not want to use asphalt because after the suns exposure it will be extremely hot on your bare feet. But when you are consider the structure of thick asphalt to totally tear out and replace the entire project is very rare. Since there will only be the weight of people walking on the pool deck you would not need the structurally sound asphalt which is normally used for heavier objects.
In the economic crisis we are in now, cost is always a consideration. The initial cost is not the only thing to consider. There are different ways to maintain each paving option. The initial cost of concrete is usually more than asphalt but the maintenance of asphalt is considerably more than concrete. Concrete can be pressure washed with chemicals and usually become clean again. Asphalt does not show as much as concrete but fades over the years and would need to be sealcoated to obtain a new appearance.
Different jobs may call for totally different mixes, removing and/or reconstructing at the end of their design life. This is where the job should be looked at individually. There are different needs and situations where concrete will be better suited and others where asphalt should be used. Before deciding what you will use for your specific job you should consult a construction professional to get an expert opinion. There are many variable to consider and if you are not familiar with the construction industry and the different situations your job calls for there can be expensive consequences. Also get several opinions before you decide to do one or the other. A licensed contractor should be able to review your jobsite and recommend whether to use concrete or asphalt.

Peyton Stallings is a lifetime Atlanta resident and general contractor. Peyton is President and onsite manager for PKS Paving And Construction and writes regular columns on, paving, Asphalt Paving Atlanta and construction in general. To learn more please visit our site at http://www.pksasphaltpavingatlanta.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Peyton_Stallings

Asphalt versus Concrete Driveways - Which is Best

Asphalt and concrete are the most popular types of material for paving driveways. Asphalt driveways and concrete driveways both have their unique advantages. If you live in a cold climate and are considering a concrete driveway you need to make sure the base for the driveway is heavily laid with gravel and it is compacted first. Otherwise the driveway will run the risk of cracking due to frost heaves. In addition, concrete is susceptible to salt damage, a material frequently used on roads in cold weather parts of the country. On the other hand, if you live in a warm or hot climate and are considering asphalt paving, then you need to consider the fact that asphalt can become soft in the hot sun and is therefore susceptible to ruts.
Asphalt paved driveways are typically cheaper to install than concrete paved driveways. However, asphalt paved driveways need significant more care over time to protect them. Asphalt paved driveways need to be sealed at least once every 3-5 years. Each sealing, though easily completed by a do it yourself homeowner, costs money and time. In addition, the sealer needs typically 2-3 days to dry before you can park a vehicle on it. Also, a newly asphalt paved driveway should not be sealed for at least 6-9 months, as the light oils associated with the asphalt need to evaporate first. If an asphalt driveway is sealed too soon it will remain soft forever.
Asphalt driveways do not need to be always black and concrete driveways do not always need to be off-white. Both asphalt and concrete driveways can be tinted to various colors. Check with your prospective paving contractors first to see what color options there are for your driveway project.
Asphalt driveways, if maintained can typically last 25-30 years. Concrete driveways can last even longer. However, both require a solid foundation to be laid on. If not laid on a solid foundation both will crack over time, especially in colder weather climates. Asphalt cracks are easier to repair than concrete driveway cracks.
Consideration for the slope of the driveway should also be considered when contemplating concrete driveways. Over time, concrete driveways can shear off of the foundation they are poured on which can lead to unwanted cracks.
If you are planning a new asphalt driveway and need help on how to hire an Asphalt Driveway Paving Contractor, see HomeAdditionPlus.com's Asphalt Driveway Paving Bid sheet. The Asphalt Driveway Paving Bid Sheet will help ensure that your hire the right contractor so that your driveway is paved correctly and you get the finished driveway you are looking for. In addition, it will help to ensure that the installation of your driveway will be accomplished on time and on budget!

Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_Donovan

Concrete Epoxy Finishes - Safe Protection For A High Use Floor

It is hard to maintain concrete floors. The porous characteristic of concrete makes it quite challenging to clean and maintain. Oils, grease and industrial solvents can make the best concrete floors look ugly. There are a lot of floor sealers and coatings made to give protection to the concrete flooring and add a permanent finish of high quality to the flooring. Although the coatings come in different varieties, the most popular is concrete epoxy coating.
Epoxy finishes of high quality can give a surface a stable, heat resistant and stain resistant finishes for majority of concrete applications. These epoxy based finishes are also friendly to the environment since they produce less odour and pollution to water, land and air. As there have been continuous progresses in the technology, epoxy finishes have turned into something more stable and less prone to cracking, clouding or discoloration. The old problems with UV rays and sunlight that could negatively affect the epoxy finishes being placed on concrete have also been resolved. Modern epoxy based finishes have protection agents that preserve the resulting finish and shine even if it is constantly exposed to UV light. The finishes that can be purchased today are strong and durable.
By giving protection to prevent oil spills, industrial solvents, heat coming from hot tires and continuous foot and vehicle traffic, the modern selection of industrial epoxy coatings for concrete floors are the best solution for heavily used floors made of concrete. Applying the product is really easy and safe because it does not release harmful fumes or contain dangerous toxins.
The steps for this task are usually the same as painting. Once the concrete surface has been cleaned, a primer is used to apply on the surface of the concrete. This is needed to make sure that the surface is properly sealed and provides a bond for the epoxy based coating. Then, the epoxy is mixed well and rolled out on the concrete slab. A top coat or sealer may be applied once the epoxy has cured and turned hard. The majority of products can let foot traffic operate again after several hours and vehicle traffic about three days after the application. For a long lasting protection of your concrete, you can get these products at a lot of retail paint stores or you can use the services of a professional for the task. Either way, you will have a garage floor coating that can last for years to come.

If you want to have a product that is of good quality and can really protect your floor, then you should use concrete epoxy coatings.

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Concrete Degradation - How Durable Is Concrete?

Although the discovery and use of concrete - defined as a hardened mixture of aggregate, water, and a binder of some kind - can be traced all the way back to the Roman era, there are some distinct differences between ancient concrete and today's modern concrete. The two major differences in favor of modern concrete are the use of tensile reinforcement and the ability to pour it into formwork - as opposed to layering it by hand.
Tensile reinforcement in the form of steel reinforcement bars - or rebar - plays a vital role in the strength and versatility of concrete structures today. Ancient Roman builders were limited in their use of concrete due to their inability to overcome this weakness. Having said that, even today's more advanced concrete structures are some of the first to fall in large earthquakes.
As amazing and versatile a structural element concrete is, there are situations and conditions in which it is more likely to fail or exhibit structural defects. Needless to say, the durability of concrete is largely dependent on mixture and application, with service conditions often being a secondary cause of failure. Let's cover some of the basic and most important steps in concrete installation to ensure maximum service life and durability:

1. Proper mixture.The idea is to get a homogenous and uniform mixture with as little water as possible. Concrete obviously needs water to hydrate, but after a sufficient amount is added to begin the chemical reaction, the less water there is the stronger the concrete will turn out. This needs to be balanced with workability as the drier the mixture is the harder it will be to spread and give shape. The amount of larger aggregate other than sand will vary significantly depending on whether the application is large or small. Smaller applications such as post stumps and fill-ins are best done with a 1:3:1 ratio - cement, sand, gravel, respectively. Larger applications such as foundations and structural elements are best done with larger gravel ratios - 1:3:5, cement, sand, gravel respectively.
2. Sufficient and properly installed steel reinforcement. Steel rebar adds critical tensile strength to concrete without which it would not be very practical as a construction material. But equally as important is the correct placement of this rebar. If the rebar is too close to the surface, there's risk of premature corrosion and spalling. Small cracks will always form to a certain extent, and it is through these cracks that water will enter. Repeated freeze/thaw cycles of this water will cause these cracks to get bigger, subsequently attacking the rebar if it is close enough to the surface.
3. Proper curing. The ultimate strength of finished concrete has a lot to do with its curing process. The rule of thumb is to cure the concrete as slowly as possible. This is why you might see concrete structural elements wrapped in plastic sheeting or sprayed with water regularly in dry or hot climates. Ponding is another method used to ensure proper curing where the curing concrete is a horizontal surface. Concrete will achieve 90% of its strength only after about 3 weeks, so you can see the importance of a slow curing process. Reduced strength, cracking, and spalling are all possible signs of improper curing.

As you can see, how durable concrete is or becomes depends on various factors. Aside from the above points, there are various additives you can mix into your concrete to make it more workable or resistant to certain elements. For example, you can add a plasticizer (1 to 2%) to make it not only easier to apply but also lessen the amount of water you'll need to mix in - thus making it stronger by virtue of there being less water.
Or if you need it to be impermeable to water you can add a sealing agent (recommended for all outdoor applications). Other additives like accelerators and retarders can also be used to control the curing process for various situations. With these things in mind you can ensure your concrete job lasts as long as possible and accomplishes the purpose for which it was made. If done right, concrete can easily last for 50 years!

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Stamped Concrete Sealer

Concrete can mimic the texture of natural stone, brick or slate for a beautiful effect. The numerous possibilities of elegant designs and the durability have all made Stamped Concrete a rage. But you need to take certain measures to make sure that it lasts. Thus, you should get this designer concrete sealed with a Stamped Concrete Sealer. The process of sealing should invariably be a part of the finishing process of the stamping, as not only does it help in adding to the finish of the floor but it also helps in the upkeep.
It is a good idea to seal your concrete floor regularly, as it goes a great way in keeping it as beautiful as ever. The frequency with which sealing is done depends on factors such as traffic and usage.
The concrete, due to being porous, has a tendency to absorb salts and water, which in turn lead to spoiling of both the appearance and also affects the surface of the concrete, making it all the more necessary to have a sealer. Choose a good quality sealer to ensure that the Stamped Concrete stays well maintained, as there have been a few cases in which the usage of sealer has led to a bad appearance of the Stamped Concrete.
Ice is another major threat to Stamped Concrete. The water that is absorbed by the floor during winters assumes the form of ice, which expands. This expansion leads to cracks or spilling. All this can be done away with the help of Stamped Concrete Sealer, which has chemicals that fight against the action of water, thereby offering protection.

Concrete Sealer provides detailed information on Concrete Sealer, Concrete Floor Sealer, Concrete Driveway Sealer, Stamped Concrete Sealer and more. Concrete Sealer is affiliated with Concrete Sealers.

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Polished Concrete - A New Durable Flooring Option

Polished Concrete has already become the flooring of preference compared to numerous other flooring selections both for industrial and residential use. Credited to its astounding longevity and design possibilities its bound to cover polished concrete in warehouses, retail establishments, all the way down to the average homeowner's surfaces.
The lure to retailers is the extraordinary durability and price associated with polished concrete. Over the long term, polished concrete can have a major savings over older alternate options for instance VCT. Sometimes the price of concrete polishing is cheaper, and the big cost savings is in long term upkeep. Though polished concrete may require simple cleaning and mild re-polishing on high traffic commercial and industrial surfaces, companies don't need to fret about delaminating of other "surface" materials; waxing, washing, product wear, terminated product lines.
Relished by anyone when considering polished concrete for a flooring remedy, are the many style alternatives. Style and design possibilities get started in the very beginning the moment the floor is poured. Bits and pieces that include colored glass, reprocessed glass items, or diverse hued rocks will be broadcast in the floor surface, and then exposed when the concrete is polished. Even though this alternative starts when a building is be constructed, there are also a lot of options after the floor is finished..
Styles can also be produced into the concrete with etching, or be merely transitioning to a different color at a particular area in the floor. When designing lines and etching, many designs can be developed that are very unique, but also detailed tile styles can be applied as well. Logo's and custom made signs can also be put directly into the concrete, a terrific option on admittance ways into offices and retail stores.
Coloring alternatives are in wide selection and how the color is distributed on the concrete is open to the client liking. Colors can be more solid and brilliant, or more translucent with lots of character producing a virtually marble like floor. While color doesn't have to be added making an industrial feeling flooring, with all the great benefits of other solid surface flooring but with the toughness only concrete can make.
When it comes to making a selection on a flooring product, I urge you to take a good hard look at polished concrete. It's shown to be cost efficient, durable, and managed take the place of a number of once common flooring choices with its attractiveness and elegance. It may be the right option for you.

Dustin is the Owner of StoneCraftFloors, a Wichita Kansas Concrete Polishing Company.

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Trades In Construction - Wet (Concrete) Works

This is a very synonymous trade with construction works, especially the construction of buildings. Most of the modern construction has its structural frame fabricated out of concrete. There are two main types of concrete:
· Mass Concrete: This is usually a 'weak' form of concrete. This means that it does not perform any load bearing duties. It is used in ground floor slabs, platforms or simple bases for light works.
· Structural (reinforced) concrete: This is used to carry loads and is therefore a common part of buildings and other structures like retaining walls. It is usually added strength properties by the use of steel (reinforcement). The specification of concrete is usually dependent on the amount of strength it is supposed to carry.
Concrete is made from a mixture of the following main parts;
· Ballast (Course aggregate): This forms the bulk of concrete parts. It is made from crushed stone and the size of the aggregates determines (partly) the strength and workability of concrete.
· Sand (fine aggregate): This is the second largest part of concrete. In concrete, it fills the gaps in between the course aggregates.
· Cement (binder): This binds together the other parts of concrete and hardens in a chemical process to form a strong mass, shaped to the desired form and size.
The three parts form the main type of concrete, which is usually given as ratio as in the following manner; (1:2:4 - One part Cement, Two parts Sand and Four parts Ballast). The three are mixed with clean water in a specified quantity. Cement reacts with water to form its strength.
Other constituents of concrete include;
· Reinforcement: Usually in the form of steel bars, but also in the form of fibrous material. Gives concrete enhanced strength properties.
· Additives: Chemical compounds added in concrete to give it enhanced characteristics like more flowability and water resistance.
Alongside this, concrete also needs moulds, commonly known as formwork, to give it support as well as shape it in the desired form, for example circular shape in columns. The conventional formwork was made of timber and poles, although this is quickly changing to other materials, mainly steel and aluminium.
Concrete works constitute the following works, which are either carried out by hand, by machine or a combination of both.
· Formwork construction: Depending on the material to be used, this can be purely a carpentry affair or a simple steel assembly. It also includes works like leveling and waterproofing. It also involves removal of formwork after a specified period, for example seven days, a process known as striking.
· Mixing: As earlier discussed. It is either done on site or mixed offsite and delivered in premix trucks.
· Steel Fixing: Where reinforced concrete to be set up, steel bars are usually fabricated and laid into the formwork before concrete is put. This involves works like bending, cutting and binding. This process is usually guided by an engineer's drawing. This is mostly a manual affair.
· Placing: This refers to the act of putting concrete into the formwork. It is in most cases done above the ground level and as such involves either hoisting or dropping. Hoisting is either done manually or mechanically using hoists or concrete pumps.
· Compacting: This is done to make sure that concrete forms a compact mass, thus enhancing its strength. In small scale projects, it is done by hand, but in large projects, it is either done using poker vibrators (hand held or otherwise) or by use of additives to achieve self-compacting concrete.
· Curing refers to the task of allowing proper chemical bonding of cement by hydration (watering). It is usually done for a specified period of time, for example thirty days.

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Concrete Services: Steps in Injection Process

Through time concrete walls, beams or floors will have cracks and this is not to be taken lightly. Concrete services experts would always remind property owners that cracks are tell-tale signs of structural problem. The early remedy or solution would prevent more expenses and once done would assure the safety of those living in the property.
There are do-it-yourself kits that allow treatment of cracks through epoxy injection. However, epoxy or polyurethane injection to be used would depend on the crack width, wall thickness, presence of water, cold environment and other conditions. How much time the injection needs to set is also determined by such conditions.
Here are the basic steps that concrete services professionals do with low-pressure crack injection.
1. Installation of injection ports
Short, hard plastic tubes with a flat base called surface ports would be needed as entry points for the epoxy to get into the crack. Drilling is not a good method since this can cause more damage and cleanup would be needed after. The base of the surface port is going to be situated directly over the crack and bonded to the surface with the epoxy paste. A rule-of-thumb is to place an inch between ports for each inch of wall thickness.
2. Seal the surface
An epoxy adhesive is used to seal over the surface ports and exposed cracks. This paste can cure from 20 to 45 minutes and will be able to surface seal with good bonding under the injection pressures. The entire exposed crack should be covered with paste. The surface port holes should not be sealed.
3. Injecting epoxy into the crack
Concrete services providers would begin injecting the epoxy at the lowest point of the wall until the epoxy will be oozing out of the upper surface ports. This is a sure sign that the crack has been filled up to the highest level. The first port would then be plugged then the next plug would be worked on. The process is repeated until the entire crack has been filled by epoxy.
Next thing is to push the material with a dispensing tool using slow pressure. This reduces the possibility of leaks or blow-outs. The repair material should be given time to fully penetrate the crack.
4. Remove the surface ports
Epoxy or urethane needs 24 to 48 hours at room temperature to cure and do its penetration into the cracks. After the required time, the surface ports can be removed by striking slowly with a hammer.
There will be times when the surface will peel and chipping can occur. This can be remedied by sanding. Another option is using a surface seal that can be peeled off when the crack is fully cured.
Knowing these steps used by concrete services professionals would lead to a better understanding of the treatment of cracks.

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